“All of our shoes and boots are bespoke which means that they are made exclusively for you and your feet. As such we will meet face to face several times over the course of your shoe’s creation. What you are about to embark on is time honoured and worthy of the wait, I hope that you will enjoy the process as much as I do.“
1. Initial Consultation and Measurements
Our initial consultation normally takes 1-2 hours and is split into two parts, firstly we will talk at length about the shoes/boots that you desire, we will look through my house shoe samples and leather swatches, talk about inspirations and aspirations and I will guide you through all the options for your shoes/boots. I will sketch your shoes/boots as the concept develops. This sketch will form the basis of your order and our contract.
With your new shoes in mind, I will record the shape and measurements of your feet in various ways and gain an understanding of your perception of comfort. I will take a cast of your feet for future reference and take photos highlighting the salient features of your feet.
2. Last Making
I will make a personalised wooden last based upon your measurements and the style lines of your chosen shoes/boots. Lasts are mechanical forms that are based on the anatomical shape and features of your feet but are modified to take into account the way that we move and the style lines of the finished shoes. Lasts are made from Beech, Maple or Hornbeam and are carved using rasps, planes, spokeshaves and abrasives.
3. Pattern making and making of the trial shoe uppers
A two dimensional pattern is created from the last, capturing its three dimensional volume whilst expressing the design lines of the shoe/boot that has been imagined. The pattern is used to cut out the various leather pieces of the upper and lining which are then thinned or “skived” in various places and sewn together to make the trial fitting uppers. I use the same leather as the final shoe to make the fitting shoes albeit from the lower grade portions of the hide.
4. First Fitting
The trial fitting shoes are made using the same techniques as the final shoes except they are not progressed beyond welting and a simple cork heel will be attached to aid the fitting process.
You will be invited back to the atelier to try on the trial shoes and we will assess the fit, form and function of the shoes/boots together and at length.
5. Last Adjustments
The fit of the trial shoes will indicate if any changes are needed to the lasts. It is normal that various adjustments are made at this stage. If you would prefer to try on the adjusted shoes before proceeding to the final stage, we can arrange a second fitting at a time of your convenience.
6. Final Shoemaking
The final pair of shoes are now ready to be made. A corrected pattern is prepared, the finest sections of hide are cut out and the new uppers are sewn. I make the final shoes or boots using the traditional hand lasted, hand welted and hand sewn method, holding the boots in my lap as I cut, hammer, stich, rasp and iron. All of the shoe’s elements are made from scratch including the threads of linen, hemp or ramie which are twisted together with a homemade wax/rosin blend based on my own recipe and preference.
The beauty of the hand welted method lies in its strength, flexibility, mouldability and its ability to be repaired and maintained over and over.
After completion wooden shoe/boot trees are made to perfectly fit your new shoes. Trees are essential to keep your shoes in good condition, delaying the formation of deep creases and maintaining the overall shape of your shoes.
Once the shoes and trees are complete they will be meticulously inspected, cleaned and polished ready for delivery.
7. Delivery
You will be invited back to the atelier one final time to inspect and try on your new shoes. I will set the creases in your shoes and I will explain the necessary steps to properly maintain them. I hope that you will take great care of your shoes and find pleasure in the ritual of regular brushing and polishing – your shoes will thank you for it and will last for many years to come.